Friday, February 26, 2010

Isla Grande Sessions Three

I hope everyone that reads this blog is well and enjoying life to the fullest. I am surrounding myself with the people that love me and having a blast. I flew back to Texas last week from Easter Island. After hanging with my Kyle and Rachel in Austin and catching a 5 lb. bass, I shot up to KC for a week with the Hatch family. I love you Presley Ann!!! We took my mom to sushi for the first time last night, went to the zoo today, and we are expecting snow on saturday!

These picks are from our dawn patrol that started at about 1 am when we got up because of a bedbug infestation!!! haha. Up all night with bed bugs, those are nights you really remember.

I will be in Texas until around the 6th of April when I fly to meet the boat in the Galapagos Islands. I will be seeing friends and fishing in Todos Locos with my brother next week in Port Mansfield. Take care everyone.

The bedbugs took over the room and made us sleep outside with the mosquitos. fun fun

Before the heebie jeebies.

This guy tried paddle out with me.

I usually make friends with the local dogs because i will pet them no matter what they look like. They all deserve a little love.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Isla Grande Sessions Two

A little food, a little water, and we were back in the surf until dark.

The reef was full of urchins , but most of them were down in the holes

Getting the most out of the day

Sundown peeler

We drank a bottle of $90 moet champagne at dinner. It was left over from the party in Miami. Apparently once champagne is chilled it is no good any more. I agree. Pretty funny.

The cabanas where we stayed

The wave was set up like a left hand point. There were a few a-frames on the reef but the best one was this right coming off the outside corner next to the channel.

I finally started finishing by turns

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Isla Grande Sessions One

"How are ya mate? Yeah, is there any surf on the island."

Wow what a 24 hours this trip was. We found out last Friday morning that we were going to get the afternoon off, and didn't have to be back to the boat until noon the next day. As always the first thing that clicked into my mind was waves. Waves, waves, waves!!!! I checked the buoys on the pacific side and there wasn't much going on. So we were planning to just go relax at some beaches around Panama City. I was laying in my cabin and I had the idea to check the Caribbean side for swell. Sure enough the surf gods were smiling. 7ft at 8 seconds. No joke, the three of us we packed and in a cab within about 30 minutes. I had briefly heard of this island called Isla Grande. I didn't know anything about the place or the wave. No plan, no guide book, no accommodation, thats the recipe for a good trip. I have had luck recently with magical surf islands and this place turned out the be no exception. Bruno and Todd are both very stoked on surfing and the Tara, the photographer came along too. Not all the pics were taken by me, as I forgot the battery to my camera. The surf was a blast.

Tara and Bruno exited to get off the boat

Bruno, very very exited for a chance to get some waves

Crossing through the rain forests of central Panama

Bus stop

Ruined fort in Porto Bello

More Rad Busses

The wave was just around the corner. A 300 yrd walk for the cabana.

Who can put their fins in the quickest?

Oh El Caribe

Walking across the reef

Did I mention the total lack of other surfers. Bruno from New Zealand

I really go to try out my new Xanadu 5'6''. Best board ive ever had for small waves.


Scared for life brah!

Our energy was amazing as we were heading out to the island. We could see that there was plenty of swell pouring into the channel.