"How are ya mate? Yeah, is there any surf on the island."
Wow what a 24 hours this trip was. We found out last Friday morning that we were going to get the afternoon off, and didn't have to be back to the boat until noon the next day. As always the first thing that clicked into my mind was waves. Waves, waves, waves!!!! I checked the buoys on the pacific side and there wasn't much going on. So we were planning to just go relax at some beaches around Panama City. I was laying in my cabin and I had the idea to check the Caribbean side for swell. Sure enough the surf gods were smiling. 7ft at 8 seconds. No joke, the three of us we packed and in a cab within about 30 minutes. I had briefly heard of this island called Isla Grande. I didn't know anything about the place or the wave. No plan, no guide book, no accommodation, thats the recipe for a good trip. I have had luck recently with magical surf islands and this place turned out the be no exception. Bruno and Todd are both very stoked on surfing and the Tara, the photographer came along too. Not all the pics were taken by me, as I forgot the battery to my camera. The surf was a blast.
Tara and Bruno exited to get off the boat
Bruno, very very exited for a chance to get some waves
Crossing through the rain forests of central Panama
Bus stop
Ruined fort in Porto Bello
More Rad Busses
The wave was just around the corner. A 300 yrd walk for the cabana.
Who can put their fins in the quickest?
Oh El Caribe
Walking across the reef
Did I mention the total lack of other surfers. Bruno from New Zealand
I really go to try out my new Xanadu 5'6''. Best board ive ever had for small waves.
Keith
Scared for life brah!
Our energy was amazing as we were heading out to the island. We could see that there was plenty of swell pouring into the channel.
1 comment:
ahhhh....so jealous. These are really good, Keith. I especially love the one of you guys walking across the reef...like I LOVE that one!
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