This has to go down as one of the saddest days in my surfing career. We had a really good chance to score desert point totally empty. Everything fell into place except the 20 knot cross shore wind. For those of you that don't know desert point is considered the best left hander in the world. If you don't believe me than you tube it. The wave is unreal and also really really fickle. We knew we where going to have to get lucky when we woke up at 4:15 am to get in the boat and head around the point. A 7ft @18 second swell was arriving mid morning and we only had until noon to surf. There where not many waves when we got there and we had to sit in the boat for the sun to come up. around 10 am the swell jacked up and the waves started to clean up for about thirty minutes. This was offseason and we had the whole place to ourselves at the very remote break. The wave just never cleaned up and kept shutting down. That afternoon we steamed back to bali on totally glassy seas. The place had to be firing that afternoon, but we missed it. I guess there are for sure worse things that happen to people. Redeem yourself surf god!!!
Camp at the point.
First wave, first wipeout.
The face of frustration.
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