valentines day with my first love. this day has to go down in the top five surfs ever for me. head and a half and just bruno and I in the water. This place is pretty unreal and there are very very few local surfers and even less traveling ones. The water and coral at the pass is probably the most beautiful I have ever seen. we surfed for 7 hours strait. no joke. i got out of the water once for 10 minutes to reapply.
Maori Enforcer
Reni from Switzerland has been our local tour guide. he has been in palau for 6 months and he one cool cat.
These pics are from the 10 minutes I got out of the water so they dont really to the place justice. The waves were really really good.
This inside section was intense. 6 foot spitters breaking on waist deep reef. get caught inside and it flushed you way down channel. bruno got pretty cut up. he also got two barrels.
all by our lonesome.
What is actually looked like
Okay. not joking. i surfed the best i have ever surfed if my life this day. I was nailing everything. Here is turn #74 in the pocket.
I am still pinching myself.
